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Travellers’ Greece: Memories of an Enchanted Land

compiled by John L. Tomkinson

More than one hundred travellers record their impressions of Greece over a period of more than three centuries, and recount their experiences in an enchanted land. The extracts show the travellers, the places they visited, and those they encountered, at their best and worst.
From many rare works now difficult of access, the compiler has extracted a great variety of writing, and a wide range of approaches to Greece, from the unashamedly romantic to the brutally cynical. Not merely a valuable repository of historical evidence, 'Travellers' Greece' is an anthology which the non-specialist can read with pleasure from cover to cover.

Anagnosis (2nd ed. 2006) 978-960-87186-4-7 608 pp

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Bent

Island-Hopping in the Cyclades

Theodore J. Bent

Abridged from The Cyclades, or Life among the Insular Greeks originally published in 1885

J. Theodore Bent, travelled abroad each year with his wife, returning to write a book about their adventures. They spent two successive winters from 1882 to 1884 in the Aegean visiting each of the inhabited islands of the Cyclades. Their chief interest was not classical archaeology, but the culture of the modern Greeks; what had survived among them of the beliefs and customs of their distant ancestors. His book not only provided folklorists and ethnologists with invaluable source material, but the general reader with a fascinating glimpse into the life of the islanders just before the disappearance of an immemorial way of life.

Anagnosis (2008) 978-960-98171-4-1

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Carnarvon

Reminiscences of Athens and the Morea

Herbert, Henry, Lord Carnarvon

Abridged from Reminiscences of Athens and the Morea: Extracts from a Journal of Travels in Greece, by the late Earl of Carnarvon, edited by his son the present Earl, first published in 1839

In 1839, Henry John Gerge Herbert, third earl of Carnarvon, stayed in Athens, then travelled across the Peloponnese to the Mani. In addition to witnessing the early Othonian court in Athens, he was one of the first Western travellers to venture into the Mani on account of the fearsome reputation of its inhabitants.

Anagnosis (2008) 978-960-98171-5-8

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Cockerell

Travels in Greece

Cockerell, Charles

Abridged from Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-17: the Journal of C.R.Cockerell RA, first published in 1903

Charles Robert Cockerell, a descendent of the famous diarist, came to Greece as a King¢s messenger in 1810, where he joined forces with the artist von Stackelberg, and met Lord Byron. His four year stay was an almost unparalleled chronicle of vandalism and theft. He “excavated” the temples of Aphaia on Aegina Apollo at Bassae, smuggling the best sculptures from those sites out of the country, auctioning them to the highest bidders. He was even the cause of some destruction on the Acropolis of Athens. He subsequently came to be recognized as an eminent architect, and designed the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge, and many other notable buildings.

Anagnosis (2008) 978-960-98171-3-4

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Curzon

Over the Mountains to Meteora

Curzon, Robert

Abridged from Visits to the Monasteries in the Levant, first published in 1849

An English aristocrat and student of palaeography, between 1834 and 1837 Curzon toured Egypt, Syria and Greece, seeking to comb through the treasures of ancient manuscripts mouldering in monasteries. His first Grecian journey started from Corfu, and took him across the Pindus Mountains to the picturesque monasteries of Meteora and back. He described this part of his travels as “the most dangerous...expedition that it ever was my fortune to undertake.” There were virtually no roads. “Law and order” hardly existed, and life was cheap. However, his resilience, his status as an English “milord”, his ready ability to communicate with dangerous characters boldly and without condescension—and no doubt his personal charm—combined to afford him protection.

Anagnosis (2008) 978-960-98171-2-7

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